Among the various types of grafting there are some that serve to reinvigorate weak plants rather than to propagate them. For example, they are the reinvigoration graft and the bridge graft, which are used respectively to help the growth of a plant with weakened roots or damaged bark. These types of grafting they can be very useful when it comes to repairing fine woods.
The type of graft so-called reinvigoration is practiced above all on trees with damaged root systems and which consequently find themselves poorly anchored to the ground. A second reason can be to change the plant to make it more suitable for the type of soil and therefore more robust. In both cases, the goal is precisely to reinvigorate the tree.
A invigoration graft it begins with the planting of seedlings that as they grow will flow into the grafted plant. We start in September or October by planting two or more saplings already formed (which obviously must be of a compatible species) in the ground around the base of the tree to be grafted, slightly inclined towards it.
In the following spring, after they are well rooted and are in vegetative force, the support plants (which will remain buried) can be grafted into the trunk of the plant to help by practicing a classic inverted T cut on this. The result of this type of graft it will be a tree with two or more separate root systems in which the roots of the new seedlings will help and soon replace those of the original plant.
A bridge coupling on the other hand, it is a type of graft that may or may be necessary to remedy a deep lesion in the trunk cortex. When parasites or trauma cause deep cracks in the bark, the tree can die because the sap no longer circulates regularly. The remedy can be a bridge graft that acts as a by-pass between the part below and above the lesion.
The bridge grafting is practiced by making an inverted T cut in the upper part and a straight T cut in the lower part of the trunk to be helped, and grafting in the two points a scion, which may be a branch of the plant itself, of such length as to adhere well in the graft points but to be a little arched.
The best times to do this type of graft are spring and late summer. In spring it is necessary to use previously produced slips and well preserved in winter. In summer, on the other hand, branches that are detached at the moment from the same plant to help can be used.
As is clear, we have devoted a great deal of pages toGrafting of fruit trees, this is because the techniques are different and nothing must be left to chance, starting with the cut. To increase the chances of taking root, in addition to the use of a stimulating mastic, it is necessary to make a clean, clean cut without burrs. An unclear cut could cause suffering to the plant and compromise the success of the entire operation. This is why it is recommended to use well-sharpened knives or scissors designed for omega or gem cutting ... The use of the grafting knife is recommended only for those with great practicality and experience. To facilitate the entire operation, also i sector professionals now they use special grafting scissors. Grafting scissors are not expensive and on the market there are exclusive ones for a type of cut or more versatile and therefore adaptable to make different types of grafting. Among the various purchase proposals, I would like to point out what appear to be the grafting scissors with the best quality / price ratio:
- Professional grafting scissors - “Tink-sky Professional” - Price € 29.99
- Professional grafting scissors - "Tofern Professional ”- Price € 23.40
These grafting scissors allow you to easily obtain cuts aomega, split and interlocking (U, V and omega cuts), it is also equipped with two additional blades and the classic blades for pruning the plant. Thegrafting scissors mentionedhave similar characteristics. The only differences lie in the manufacturer and in the fact that the more expensive pruning shears allows you to cut more double branches, with a larger diameter than the Tofren scissors which have a maximum opening of 12 mm.
Made of steel and durable plastic. The cutting system for grafting is particularly suitable for grafting fruit plants even if it fits well on woody branches (roses, vines and other ornamental plants). Both prices indicated include free shipping costs.
How to graft a fruit tree?
- Choose rootstock and scion
- Adjust the scissors to the type of cut (and graft) desired
- Cut the scion and the branch of the rootstock where you want to plant the scion
- Join the scion to the rootstock by adding mastic
- Seal with raffia or grafting tape.
Our other related article that may interest you: Cherry graft.